Rear Wheel Bearing Tool Aficionados

[kevnj]

So I have the chapter’s Rear Bearing Tool and have successfully removed the CV Shaft and Hub. The inner race came loose with the hub during the removal process. The snap ring has been removed so the bearing is ready to be pulled!

So here’s the part I'm having a dilemma with. The bearing even with the tool hasn’t budged. I have hit the bearing surface with some PB blaster. I wanted to use the tool to pull it out, but with my breaker bar and a long pipe there is a lot resistance on the bearing’s part.

How much force have people used to get these things to move? I don’t want to damage the threads of the threaded rod. The threaded rod looks to be pretty beefy...am I being overly cautious?

Here are the steps I was going to take tonight.

1. Spray PB blaster around the bearing surface from both sides
2. Apply some heat to the bearing
3. Spray more PB blaster
4. Wait for everything to cool down overnight.
5. More PB blaster and try it again

I could always use a large socket and give the bearing a nice hit with a big hammer but I feel like it’s defeat!

Anyone have any advice or experience with this? This is a fun job

[m20power]

Kev,

A stubborn bearing can take quite a lot of force to get moving. You can apply a lot of torque to the tool jack screw, just don't use an impact wrench.

If you apply heat, heat the housing rather then the bearing and pull while hot. An impact hammer could also help loosen up.

BTW, the tech write-up at Pelican Parts describes the process well..."pop the bearing assembly out of the trailing arm."

Bob

[mmarv]

Kev,

A stubborn bearing can take quite a lot of force to get moving. You can apply a lot of torque to the tool jack screw, just don't use an impact wrench.

If you apply heat, heat the housing rather then the bearing and pull while hot. An impact hammer could also help loosen up.

BTW, the tech write-up at Pelican Parts describes the process well..."pop the bearing assembly out of the trailing arm."

Bob

Silly question that has to be asked: Are you using the correct size puller plate on the inside? Even though they look similar, those plates have different diameters. You obviously want the one that fits inside the CA and ONLY engages the edge of the outer race.

PB blaster + heat the outside if necessary (at the same time try an ice cube on the inside).

A low torque impact gun will actually help shock the assy and let PB blaster work better.

LUBE THE THREADS of the puller. WD40 works ok as lube/coolant.

Beware breaker bar + pipe. That could damage threads. Those threads are generic threads and not beafy.

[jnscaldwell]

+1 Mike and Bob.

Also, for install of new bearings....put them in the freezer for about 4 hours before doing the job. Worked like a charm on my E36.

[kevnj]

Silly question that has to be asked: Are you using the correct size puller plate on the inside? Even though they look similar, those plates have different diameters. You obviously want the one that fits inside the CA and ONLY engages the edge of the outer race.

PB blaster + heat the outside if necessary (at the same time try an ice cube on the inside).

A low torque impact gun will actually help shock the assy and let PB blaster work better.

LUBE THE THREADS of the puller. WD40 works ok as lube/coolant.

Beware breaker bar + pipe. That could damage threads. Those threads are generic threads and not beafy.

Yep, using the plate that only engages the outer race and I have been spraying the rod with WD40 big time. Has made for a nice greasy mess with everything I touch.

It was getting late last night and progress had slowed to a halt so I'm going to give it another shot.

I'll try out your suggestions.

[kevnj]

+1 Mike and Bob.

Also, for install of new bearings....put them in the freezer for about 4 hours before doing the job. Worked like a charm on my E36.

Yeah the bearing in the freezer trick is the best. I had to explain to Mary why there were car parts in the freezer, next to the ice cream

When I have done front bearings, I do the inverse by putting them in the oven to 120', I figure our brakes get way hotter then that and the bearing just slides on the spindle like butter using the spindle nut to press it in.

[kevnj]

Bob and all thanks for the advice...

I know a common mistake when installing the bearings it to press the inner race out of the bearing when installing the hub. Anyone have any wise words on this to add?

From what I can gather I need to ensure the bearing will need to be fully supported (inner and outer race) while pressing the hub back in. And I should ensure the half shaft and hubs are properly matched BEFORE installing the hub.

I'll keep you posted.

[victory1auto]

Putting the hub in the freezer overnite greatly facilitates getting it back into the bearing. I put a coat of "Moly" grease on the hub as well. Just be sure you let it warm back to ambient before you try pulling the stub axle through it. Notice I said "pulling" and not "pounding".

Vic

[kevnj]

Putting the hub in the freezer overnite greatly facilitates getting it back into the bearing. I put a coat of "Moly" grease on the hub as well. Just be sure you let it warm back to ambient before you try pulling the stub axle through it. Notice I said "pulling" and not "pounding".

Vic

Good point about putting the hub in the freezer. I'll also try Doug's pulling concept on the half shafts.

[DougDish]

Not only did I use "The Doug Pulling Method" to install the half shaft I also placed the shaft in the freezer for about an hour prior to install and used my electric heat gun to GENTLY warm the inner race of the bearing. Be forewarned that heat on the new inner race should be done with care. I had just warmed it to the touch, elevating its temp above room temp (every little bit of thermal growth or shrink will help). Also, in order to "Pull" the shaft into the bearing I had to drill and tap the end of the shaft. I have years of experience drilling and tapping metal so it was a no brainer for me. If you are not comfortable with this procedure stop yourself and give me a call.

Doug

[kevnj]

Not only did I use "The Doug Pulling Method" to install the half shaft I also placed the shaft in the freezer for about an hour prior to install and used my electric heat gun to GENTLY warm the inner race of the bearing. Be forewarned that heat on the new inner race should be done with care. I had just warmed it to the touch, elevating its temp above room temp (every little bit of thermal growth or shrink will help). Also, in order to "Pull" the shaft into the bearing I had to drill and tap the end of the shaft. I have years of experience drilling and tapping metal so it was a no brainer for me. If you are not comfortable with this procedure stop yourself and give me a call.

Doug

Thanks Doug for the tip. I was thinking about putting the half shafts in the freezer too. I sent you a PM.

Thanks again,

-Kev

[kevnj]

Update:

The bearings have been removed. Man were they stubborn!

Here are the steps I took to get them loose:

1. Spray some PB blaster on bearing edge from both sides
2. Heat trailing arm housing - NOT the bearing
3. Assemble puller and start rowing, it was quite a work out
4. Bearing moves a little and then got stuck
5. Take apart puller assembly
6. Get large 3/4 drive socket and use a BFH
7. Repeat from Step 1

The 1st bearing took about 30 minutes, the second a little less.

Next order of business is to clean the trailing arm housing and replace the tired CV Joint boots.


Thank you all for the advice.