e36 M3: rear half shaft re-installation

[BJerolimic]

finally finishing up my e36 M3 and looking forward to getting it back onto the road. I'm at the point of re-installing the rear half shafts (that I cleaned, greased with Red Line CV Grease, and new boots) into the new hubs after I put in new wheel bearings. Every DIY I see on the net focuses on getting the shafts out and then just casually mentions "installation is reverse" or "slide half shaft back in". But even with new hubs it doesn't just "slide back in". And getting them out was no problem but everyone always complains about that part! I would use the axle nut to pull it in, but I can't get the shafts in even remotely close enough to get the nut on the threads

Should the trailing arms be attached to the car for re-installation of the shafts? or should they both be off the car for installation?

Do you tap on the shaft with a rubber mallet? if so, do you try to keep everything straight and aligned and tap on the inner most part of the inner cv joint? or do you tap on the edge on the inner part of the outer cv joint? did that inner outer part even make sense? lol


THANKS in advance. And if anyone is a pro at this and in Northern NJ (I'm in Montville in between Montclair and Morristown) feel free to come on by and help me button it back up. Pizza and beer or whatever on me!

[mmarv]

At some part of the wheel bearing install instruction there should, or should be a step where you DOUBLE CHECK that the hub and splined shaft fit together easily. Easily doesn't mean loose, but you should be able to press the two together by hand to the point where the wheel nut can grab properly. You should also be able to remove by hand.

Be careful since 'tapping' the cv shaft into the hub while installed in the bearing can do bad things (at least with an E30). You could pop the inner race out. Ask me how I know.

I do suggest cleaning both mating parts thoroughly and using some WD40. If it's a little tight , try turning a few degree's and trying again. You might find a better match on the machining. I ended up using a fine V file and lightly cleaned every single spline, inside and out.

Last resort, and I can only recommend base on an E30, you can drill and tap the end of the CV shaft and use some threaded rod as a puller (Idea courtesy of Doug Feigel)

[BJerolimic]

thanks Mike! I wasn't really following step by step directions because of all the various projects I was doing at the same time so no directions have all the steps for all the projects and all the added "while I'm in there" jobs... i.e. all new bushings, ball joints, new rear CAs, rebuilding the shafts, new hubs & bearings, new rotors & pads, new exhaust hangers, center support bearing and guibo and that's just from the trans back!

also did a bunch of stuff under the hood and some things in the interior

[victory1auto]

I rarely see those axles slip or push into place, regardless of how I index the axle to the hub. As already suggested, do not reinstall the axle by banging on the CV joint OD. Unfortunately, some shops do this.

Doug's idea of drilling/tapping the axle is a good one. Also, there is a special fixture that screws onto the external axle threads and allows you to pull the axle into place. To me this is the preferred method.

Perhaps the Chapter Tool Box should acquire the threaded fixture I am referring to.

Vic

[jnscaldwell]

At some part of the wheel bearing install instruction there should, or should be a step where you DOUBLE CHECK that the hub and splined shaft fit together easily. Easily doesn't mean loose, but you should be able to press the two together by hand to the point where the wheel nut can grab properly. You should also be able to remove by hand.

Be careful since 'tapping' the cv shaft into the hub while installed in the bearing can do bad things (at least with an E30). You could pop the inner race out. Ask me how I know.

I do suggest cleaning both mating parts thoroughly and using some WD40. If it's a little tight , try turning a few degree's and trying again. You might find a better match on the machining. I ended up using a fine V file and lightly cleaned every single spline, inside and out.

Last resort, and I can only recommend base on an E30, you can drill and tap the end of the CV shaft and use some threaded rod as a puller (Idea courtesy of Doug Feigel)

I also used a file and cleaned the splines, as well as the hub. Seemed to help immensely.

[mmarv]

...Also, there is a special fixture that screws onto the external axle threads and allows you to pull the axle into place....

Perhaps the Chapter Tool Box should acquire the threaded fixture I am referring to.

Vic

This would have helped me a lot, and would have saved a bearing.

If everything wasn't bolted back in place I could taken some dimensions and had our shop make something.

[BJerolimic]

I rarely see those axles slip or push into place, regardless of how I index the axle to the hub. As already suggested, do not reinstall the axle by banging on the CV joint OD. Unfortunately, some shops do this.

Doug's idea of drilling/tapping the axle is a good one. Also, there is a special fixture that screws onto the external axle threads and allows you to pull the axle into place. To me this is the preferred method.

Perhaps the Chapter Tool Box should acquire the threaded fixture I am referring to.

Vic

thanks Vic! do you know who makes the tool?

[RAYADAM]

thanks Vic! do you know who makes the tool?

http://www.baumtools.com/pdf/BMW_Output_Shaft_Kit.pdf

[edw1]

I aggressively wire brush both the stub axle and hub splines until I can push them together most of the way by hand. I occasionally take a triangle file to individual internal and external splines as needed. Used and reman axles always seem to have damaged splines that require extensive filing. Only after successfully mating the hub and axle by hand do I install the parts into the car.

I have reinstalled many axles while replacing rear wheel bearings using this method and I never had problems inserting the stub axle far enough to get the axle nut started.

[jnscaldwell]

I aggressively wire brush both the stub axle and hub splines until I can push them together most of the way by hand. I occasionally take a triangle file to individual internal and external splines as needed. Used and reman axles always seem to have damaged splines that require extensive filing. Only after successfully mating the hub and axle by hand do I install the parts into the car.

I have reinstalled many axles while replacing rear wheel bearings using this method and I never had problems inserting the stub axle far enough to get the axle nut started.

+100000000

In my opinion no tool can replace careful preparation of both the stub axle and the hub. It may take more time, but as Ed relates, it works.

[mmarv]

I aggressively wire brush both the stub axle and hub splines until I can push them together most of the way by hand. I occasionally take a triangle file to individual internal and external splines as needed. Used and reman axles always seem to have damaged splines that require extensive filing. Only after successfully mating the hub and axle by hand do I install the parts into the car.

I have reinstalled many axles while replacing rear wheel bearings using this method and I never had problems inserting the stub axle far enough to get the axle nut started.

+100000000

In my opinion no tool can replace careful preparation of both the stub axle and the hub. It may take more time, but as Ed relates, it works.

Better yet, if it goes kablamo at the track it'll be easier to take apart...

[victory1auto]

Ed,

Not to question success........but, those splines are, I think, an intentional interference fit. Do you think it wise to make them a slip fit?

Vic

[mmarv]

Ed,

Not to question success........but, those splines are, I think, an intentional interference fit. Do you think it wise to make them a slip fit?

Vic

Splined setup should have the smallest fraction of an interference fit (on the order of 0.001"). It should not be a 'slip' fit, but more of a 'hand press' fit.

[Jacksone30]

I filed the splines a bit and the threads were about 1/2 inch from being exposed in wheel hub

So I gently tapped in the shaft with a rubber mallet around the edge od the outer cv joint near the wheel while slowly turning the axel and it slid in far enough to catch the threads on the bolt.

Changing the rear wheel bearing took me 12 hours - over three days 4 hours at a crack. The other bearing should take less time

I extracted the wheel bearing and reinstalled the new one with my spring compressor some big washers and a 3" PVC pipe coupling. Found video on u tube how to do this - worked well!! No expensive special tool

I did get a loaner slide hammer pulled from auto zone to pull off the wheel hub - what a pita that was