Well I thought I was out tof the woods....however, the old gal stalled out after only 20 mins. of highway driving.
Previously we had replaced the Fuel Pump, fuel filter, and Crank Position Sensor. It ran fine for about a month, even after 2 hrs of highway driving.
So then it stalled after only 20 mins. and I was dumbfounded.
I had it flat-bedded home, and again tried strating, it would turn over but that's it. Then checked the fuel pressure at the rail schrader valve.....ZERO.
Then checked the fuse box (the one in the trunk) and found the F/P fuse (15A) blown. Replaced it and it started right up!
OK, so why is my F/P fuse blown....faulty F/pump? F/pump overheating?
or ground problem?
The F/pump (Bosch) is only 6 months old.
Anyone have a similar issue with their e39?
TIA,
Bruce D.
'97 e39 528i
e39 stall issue re-surfaces...
-
- Posts: 333
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:02 pm
- Location: Hunterdon County
-
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 6:48 pm
- Contact:
Relays
I would replace any associated relays. I'm not saying this is the fix, but since you replaced the pump and filter, at the same time I would have replaced the relays. Just sayin....
Tim M
1995 BMW M5 Euro Daytona Violet
1985 Subaru BRAT GL
1992 Mercedes 300D
1998 Mercedes E300 Turbo Diesel
2021 Toyota Tundra 1794 TRD Offroad
1995 BMW M5 Euro Daytona Violet
1985 Subaru BRAT GL
1992 Mercedes 300D
1998 Mercedes E300 Turbo Diesel
2021 Toyota Tundra 1794 TRD Offroad
Check the current draw to the fuel pump. If excessive (>fuse) wire direct to power and check current draw again. Could be faulty supply power circuit - ie wiring, relay etc. But first rule out pump.
HTH, Bob
HTH, Bob
'11 335i Convertible - Street
'02 325Ci - Street
'97 M3 Coupe - Street
'17 340i - Wife's ride
No automatics!
'02 325Ci - Street
'97 M3 Coupe - Street
'17 340i - Wife's ride
No automatics!