Need to replace the water pump on my 2000 M5 with 67000 miles.
Started noticing a strange bad noise at idle - (feared it might be VANOS...)
after a little probing with the stethoscope it sounded for sure like the the W/P bearing was the culprit. Loosened the drive belt - and the W/P plulley has 1/8+" radial play (but does not leak a drop!)
Anyone have experience with changing out a W/P on the S62?
I am not sure of the coolant refill procedure - I can't locate any bleed screw like those found on the M30 sixes...
Looks like the parts list out around $600 from the dealer. And the local dealer wants double that for the job. If I can gt 25% off parts, It may be worth the time to DIY.
any advice / comments welcome - including recommendations for a good independant shop in the Morristown area.
Thanks
Need advice - 2000 M5 Water Pump shot at 67K
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BJerolimic
- Posts: 747
- Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2004 2:24 pm
- Location: Glen Ridge, NJ . . . . . . '98 318ti - '01 M5 - '08 X5
I know Brian Henry has done it as I helped him, and by helped I mean held a light and fetched wrenches briefly
See what kind of pricing you can get from the new forum & newsletter sponsor Alkendesign.com
See what kind of pricing you can get from the new forum & newsletter sponsor Alkendesign.com
and gone but not forgotten:
'00 323Ci Steel Grey / Black Dinan & UUC & Schnitzer mods
'89 325iX Diamond Black / Black 4dr 5spd Dinan chip, Ireland exhaust, H&R+Koni
'01 525iTa
The pump replacement for the S62, while straight forward, is a bit more work than the 6 cylinder engines. In addition, you will have to remove the front vibration dampener from the crank.
At 67k miles, consider replacing the thermostat and the three hoses (upper rad, lower rad, reservoir) while you are in there. You will also need 4 new vibration dampener bolt as they are one use stretch bolts. They cost about 10 each from the dealer (ouch). The FSM also recommends replacing the six rubber orings that connect the thermostat housing to the coolant pipes behind it. The pump should come with a new gasket.
Make sure to clean your radiator while it is out. I bet it is clogged with debris. If you really want to be hardcore, replace the radiator. This was the casue of an overheating issue I had at SPR last summer.
There is no bleed screw for the S62 - it is a self bleeding reservoir, if you believe in that kind of thing.
Hope this helps,
Brian
At 67k miles, consider replacing the thermostat and the three hoses (upper rad, lower rad, reservoir) while you are in there. You will also need 4 new vibration dampener bolt as they are one use stretch bolts. They cost about 10 each from the dealer (ouch). The FSM also recommends replacing the six rubber orings that connect the thermostat housing to the coolant pipes behind it. The pump should come with a new gasket.
Make sure to clean your radiator while it is out. I bet it is clogged with debris. If you really want to be hardcore, replace the radiator. This was the casue of an overheating issue I had at SPR last summer.
There is no bleed screw for the S62 - it is a self bleeding reservoir, if you believe in that kind of thing.
Hope this helps,
Brian
Thanks for the advice. Yes - I was wondering about the radiator & expansion tank - probably best to start with all fresh cooling system parts and go for another 7 years... I wonder if the Zionsville all aluminum radiator is worth the extra coin.
How hard is it to pull the vib damper? what tools are needed? will a regular (chevy v8) damper puller work?
self bleeding? like a chevy?
Thanks again,
jp
How hard is it to pull the vib damper? what tools are needed? will a regular (chevy v8) damper puller work?
self bleeding? like a chevy?
Thanks again,
jp
worth the effort -M5 cooling system
took advantage of the nice weather after christmas...
replaced the w/p, tstat, 3 hoses, radiator, expansion tank, cap, vib damper bolts & 6 orings.
had to make a simple tool to hold the vib damper for removal/installation.
..and another to pressure test the system through the temp sensor hole
other than that it was a very straight forward, but full days work.(don't forget to lube the orings with antifreeze)
I bet an experienced pro at a shop could do all in 3 or 4 hours.
except for the pump bearing, the old parts looked perfectly clean and fine - but the tank, rad & hoses were not that much $$ for the peace of mind. (considering that the dealer wanted more than their cost just to replace the w/p)
got the parts list & p/n's from realoem.com and the parts from hunterdon bmw (25% off on sat. ) came to around $1100 for all. folks at hunterdon were real nice.
Thanks to Brian and bbh03 for the advice
replaced the w/p, tstat, 3 hoses, radiator, expansion tank, cap, vib damper bolts & 6 orings.
had to make a simple tool to hold the vib damper for removal/installation.
..and another to pressure test the system through the temp sensor hole
other than that it was a very straight forward, but full days work.(don't forget to lube the orings with antifreeze)
I bet an experienced pro at a shop could do all in 3 or 4 hours.
except for the pump bearing, the old parts looked perfectly clean and fine - but the tank, rad & hoses were not that much $$ for the peace of mind. (considering that the dealer wanted more than their cost just to replace the w/p)
got the parts list & p/n's from realoem.com and the parts from hunterdon bmw (25% off on sat. ) came to around $1100 for all. folks at hunterdon were real nice.
Thanks to Brian and bbh03 for the advice
Just a few points... 67k is not at all unheard of for V8 water pump failure. Mine's tight in the 740iL at over 140k and not leaking, I have seen them fail well below 67k.
At your age and mileage I would seriously consider a new radiator and expansion tank tho.
Also, you did use BMW coolant, right? The green stuff does not make these cars happy.
Bill
At your age and mileage I would seriously consider a new radiator and expansion tank tho.
Also, you did use BMW coolant, right? The green stuff does not make these cars happy.
Bill
